Prepare to embark on a culinary adventure with one of America's most celebrated Chinese chefs, as he brings his mouthwatering creations to the Philadelphia suburbs. This is a story of flavor, tradition, and the power of a good meal to unite communities.
In the bustling King of Prussia, amidst the hustle and bustle of daily life, a hidden gem awaits. A simple storefront, nestled between a yoga studio and a dental office, bears the name that caught my attention: Peter Chang. This name, synonymous with culinary excellence, has a fascinating tale to tell.
Chang, a legend in the Washington, D.C. area, has a story that began with a New Yorker article, "Where's Chang?" which chronicled his local cult following. Despite (or perhaps because of) his nomadic journey through Sichuan kitchens, Chang finally settled down, opening his first restaurant in Charlottesville, Virginia. Since then, his empire has expanded rapidly, with 20 restaurants across the Mid-Atlantic, each offering a unique dining experience.
Now, Chang has made his debut in the Philadelphia region with not one, but two new restaurants: Peter Chang in King of Prussia and Mama Chang in Colmar. His once elusive presence is now a delightful fixture in the area.
I was fortunate enough to sample some of Chang's creations, and let me tell you, it was an explosion of flavors. From the signature bubble scallion pancake to the dim-sum sampler box, every bite was a journey. The crystal shrimp dumpling, with its clean snap, the Peking duck spring roll with its hoisin-infused crunch, and the fragrant wonton with house chili oil - each dish was a masterpiece.
But here's where it gets interesting. Chang, often referred to as a Sichuan chef due to the spicy 'málà' notes in his dishes, is actually from Hubei province. Hubei, a Central Chinese crossroads, has been influenced by neighboring cuisines but interprets them uniquely. Chang's take on dan dan noodles, for instance, is a lighter, brighter, and spicier twist on the traditional dish.
His black pepper shrimp, served in a stunning blue and yellow hot pot, is a fusion of multiple regional styles. The sauce, a bold yet balanced blend, showcases Sichuan kung pao, Hunan black pepper, and even Maggi and Worcestershire sauces. It's a true culinary adventure on a plate.
The two Philadelphia-area restaurants, Peter Chang and Mama Chang, offer almost identical menus, allowing diners to explore a wide array of classic Chinese dishes. While Peter Chang presents tapas-style small plates, Mama Chang, inspired by Chang's mother, Ronger Wang, offers larger, family-style portions.
The restaurant group's decision to open in suburban locations is strategic. Lydia Chang, Chang's daughter and business partner, explains that easy parking and the opportunity to introduce diverse communities to traditional Chinese cuisine were key factors. However, in this region, there has been a significant demographic shift, with Chinese families moving to the northern and western suburbs.
About 40% of Peter Chang's King of Prussia customers are of Chinese descent, but in Colmar, that number drops to 20%. Lydia notes that preferences for Americanized Chinese food remain strong, and the restaurant aims to be flexible, offering dishes like chicken lo mein and shrimp fried rice.
I highly recommend branching out from the usual suspects like General Tso's and trying the Wuxi sweet-and-sour chicken, with its larger chunks and lighter batter, or the vibrant firecracker cilantro fish roll. The jade tofu duck soup, with its verdant kale-infused broth and meaty duck stock, is a must-try.
Chang's birds are cooked to perfection, with a classic technique that results in a tawny, candied skin. The duck, served with house-steamed pancakes, is a true crowd-pleaser, as is the branzino in sweet-and-sour sauce, showcasing the kitchen's technical prowess.
Chang's love for spice is evident in dishes like the dragon eggplant in garlic sauce, where the suoyi-style knife work allows the eggplant to expand like a Slinky through a saucy glaze. The double-cooked "dry fry" method, used in dishes like the eggplant fries and bamboo fish, adds a unique crispiness and aromatic spice.
But it's not all about spice. Some of the best offerings showcase subtler flavors, like the "farmer's stir-fry," a nod to Peter's mom's cooking from their family farm. The Yangzhou-style Lion's Head meatballs are a masterpiece of comfort food, with their cloud-like texture and rich, mild gravy.
As these two locations evolve, I'm excited to see how they will capture the wider public's attention and become a destination for food enthusiasts. With Chang's culinary expertise and his family's dedication, these restaurants have the potential to become a wider draw, offering a unique dining experience in the suburbs.
Peter Chang KOP
Henderson Square, 314 S. Henderson Rd., Suite C, King of Prussia, 717-431-0488, peterchangkop.com
Open 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, until 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday.
Larger plates, $16-$40.
Wheelchair accessible.
Not ideal for gluten-free dining.
BYOB
Mama Chang
118 Bethlehem Pike, Colmar, 215-822-0299, mamachangphiladelphia.com
Open 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, until 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Brunch 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Friday through Sunday.
Larger plates, $16-$42. Bottomless dim sum weekend brunch, $33 per person.
Wheelchair accessible.
Not ideal for gluten-free dining.
Drinks: Full liquor license with colorful, tropical-inspired cocktails, Chinese beers, and baiju.
Both restaurants offer a delightful journey through Chinese cuisine, and I encourage you to explore their menus and discover your new favorite dishes!
